And now I need to stop spending money.
Off to Silverstone on Sunday to watch the World Superbikes. Will be cheering on Chaz Davies on the Triumph in the Supersport Race. You’re going to see a lot more of this guy next year I think, he’s a real racer and really exciting to watch
Zed Passed it’s MOT 😀
Slight problem with the headlamp connections but I was able to fix this and the retest went through no problems.
Now to get some mile on it.
I found a number of snippets of information on the internet and in the manual about carburettor setup. Putting these all together seem to suggest 3 critical areas to adjust and check.
First was the slide heights. The sliders all need to be set at the same height from the base of the carb body. Manual says 0.7mm on the engine side. However a couple of other articles suggested an alternative of using a 2-3mm drill on the intake side as a guide. So i used 4 x 3mm drills, one inserted in the air filter side of the carb just under the slides as shown in the pictures.
I then adjusted the slides so that the drill was a tight fit under the slide. Just enough of a tight fit to drag on the drill when it is pulled out.
Secondly the float heights were setup. I went though the process of attaching a tube to the drain holes in the float bowls one by one to measure the float height then adjusting the tang on the float to get the height correct. This was a major pain in the ass and didn’t work very well. So I then took a float bowl off and filled it with fuel. I then put a float in it and measure from the top of the float to the surface of the fuel. Using this measurement (10mm) I put a pencil mark on the side of the floats to indicate where the fuel level would be. I then refitted the float and blew into the fuel feed while moving the float to find the point where the float valve stopped the air flow. I then used a 5mm drill as a guide on the base of the carb body to see if it aligned with the pencil mark. If not I adjusted it accordingly. After reassembling the carbs I checked the float heights again with the pipe in the drain plug hole method and they were all good. Fitted new drain plug seals at the this point to stop them leaking.
Finally I set the pilot jet screws 1.5 turns out as per the manual.
Refitted the carbs, throttle cable, fuel tank, air filters and left it over night. I couldn’t face the possibility of it running like crap after all that and that late at night, so I left it.
I started the bike tonight. Fired first go with full choke and half choke after 30 sec. Ran pretty well despite the exhaust blowing a bit. After it had warmed up a bit i rode it a few yards up the road and back. It’s running pretty good, seems a little hesitant on < 14 throttle but other than that its a lot better than it was 🙂
Just ordered a number plate. Hopefully I could try and MOT it next week.
I’ve been pushing on with the Zed since getting the engine back in. I’ve now refitted the wiring and replace parts of the wiring and a number of connectors. Now all the electrics appear to work ok with no popping fuses.
I had to put a new battery on it as the old one wouldn’t hold more than 10volts.
I’ve cleaned up the carbs a little and refitted them along with new cam and clutch cover gaskets. It’s had a new clutch cable, which is a little bit short I think but it seems to work for now. Refitted the chain and primary drive cover too after a good clean.
The chain guard I had was some crap after market chrome one that really didn’t fit very well. So I went searching for a replacement only to find that a Kawasaki NOS chain guard is going to set me back Â£105 ! By accident I came across a local company in Cov that had moulds for a number of classic jap parts. They make a chain guard to fit a Z1 so I went to take a look. Turned out to be a good quality solid moulded part which fits really well. It still cost Â£40 but I doubt it is any different to the original.
They also make tail pieces and side panels for Zed so if you need one get in contact with LPM
So I’m now waiting on an oil filter so that I can get some oil in her again and then I think I’m ready to put some fuel in and see what happens. Fingers crossed it will be good news from that point on.
Finally I have the Engine back in the Zed 🙂
Took a couple of hours of juggling to get it back in and a lot of lessons learned.
To get it in I had to lift the engine with the gear lever side of the engine parralel with the ground. Then layed the bike on it’s side under the engine and lowered the engine into the frame. Put a scratch on the frame with one of the engine studs 😦 but other than that it went in without too much bother.
Just a bit more painting and polishing and then I think I’m ready to put the engine back in the Zed.
If I can get leave of absence from decorating the bedroom then it may go in at the weekend.
Valve clearances are now done. With the cam cover off I inspected what I could of the cams and cam chain. The cams and chain look pretty good but the top idler had a lot of twist in it. This worried me a bit and despite the idlers being pretty expensive I though it best to change it since if it broke then the top end of the engine is potentially toast.
Having got the idler out it looked shagged, with day light showing round the centre bearing..
After some searching on the internet and a couple of phone calls I eventually got a replacement pattern gear from z-power. I took the chain tension out and cleaned it up prior to retentioning the cam chain because it seemed to be sticking when the clamp bolt was loosened off. Now it’s all back together again.
Next task it to clean the engine casings and give them a coat of paint. Then polish the side covers and back in with the motor 🙂
Last June I did a compression test on the Zed prior to it being taken to bits over the winter.
No. 2 cylinder was a little down on compression when compared with the others and when starting this cylinder would often not fire without getting some heat in and cleaning the plug.
I’ve recently turned my attention to the engine with a view to getting it back in the bike ASAP. I checked the valve clearances and all was fine apart from the valves on no. 2 cylinder. The clearance on both of the valves was < 0.05mm and I could not get a feeler gauge in to check the gap.
After removing and measuring the shimms i have some on order that are 0.15mm thinner in the hope that this will open the clearance up to somewhere near tolerance (0.05 -> 0.15mm).
Fingers crossed this was the cause of the lower compression on this cylinder.